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Material Impact

40% of the footwear and clothing industry's greenhouse gas emissions come from raw material production. This means that processes involved in growing cotton, extracting oil to make synthetic fibres, and other steps in material creation, are responsible for a large part of the industry's carbon footprint. Sourcing more sustainable raw materials is a key strategy for brands looking to reduce their environmental impact. Here's what you need to know to make informed choices.

Cotton

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Cotton is a plant-based fibre made from the cotton plant, Gossypium. It is strong, breathable, and renewable.

Cotton

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Conventional cotton farming is water- and chemical-intensive, which can harm local communities and ecosystems.

Organic Cotton is grown without using synthetic fertilisers and pesticides. Organic farming helps the soil hold more carbon than conventional farming does. Optional certifications, like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), track organic cotton from the farm to the store. Passenger are notable for using organic cotton in their products.

Regenerative cotton is a holistic approach to farming that prioritises human and ecosystem health. While there is no single definition, regenerative practices aim to rebuild soil organic matter and restore soil biodiversity.

Recycled cotton is made from textile waste generated during manufacturing or by consumers discarding used cotton textiles. These materials are recycled into cotton fibres, reducing the environmental impact of farming and helping avoid textile waste.

Wool

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Wool is a natural material sourced from animals such as sheep, goats, and alpacas. It is breathable, insulating, odour-resistant, and long-lasting.

Wool

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The main challenges with wool are animal welfare and land use for farming.

Certified wool addresses some of these challenges. The Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) is a voluntary global standard that addresses the welfare of sheep and the land they graze on. Other standards include: ZQ Merino (Smartwool are partnered with ZQ Merino), ZQRX Merino (Icebreaker are a part of this programme) and NATIVA Wool.

Recycled wool is made from factory scraps or returned garments that are shredded and re-spun into new yarn, reducing the need for wool production and minimising waste. Certifications include the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) or Recycled Claim Standard (RCS).

Down

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Down is an insulating material made from the fi ne feathers of geese or ducks. It is lightweight, breathable, durable, and recyclable.

Down

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The main concern with Down is animal welfare during production.

Certified down such as the Responsible Down Standard (RDS) ensures that farms have been kept to standards that prohibit force-feeding, live-plucking, and other welfare risks. Rab ensures all down sourced from farms into their supply chain is RDS certified.

Recycled down is reclaimed from items like bedding or cushions and reused in new products, reducing the need for new down production and minimising waste. Re:Down supplies recycled down to brands.

Leather

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Leather is made from animal hide, most commonly cowhide. It is strong, flexible, and durable.

Leather

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Leather production faces environmental challenges like high land use and a chemical-intensive tanning process.

Certified Leather The Leather Working Group (LWG) is the most well-known and established sustainability standard in the leather industry, auditing the manufacturing process to reduce environmental impacts. The North Face purchase 100% of their leather from LWG-certified tanneries.

Leather alternatives address some challenges related to animal farming and can be made from synthetic or plant-based materials. For a product to be vegan-certified, it must contain no animal products, must not be tested on animals, and must not include animal-derived GMOs (genetically modified organisms).

Polyester

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Polyester is a synthetic fibre made from fossil-fuel-based chemicals. It is durable, lightweight, and flexible.

Polyester

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Polyester production is energy-intensive, non-renewable, and non-biodegradable.

Recycled polyester, made from rPET (polyethylene terephthalate), is typically sourced from plastic bottles. These are processed into new yarn, reducing emissions from virgin polyester production. Certifications include Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) and Global Recycled Standard (GRS). REPREVE is a branded fibre made from recycled materials and waste sources.

Nylon

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Nylon is a synthetic fibre made from fossil-fuel-based chemicals. It is known for its durability and stretchiness.

Nylon

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Like polyester, Nylon production is energy-intensive and non-renewable.

Recycled nylon is made from leftover fabric that was not used during production or from materials that people have thrown away, like old fishing nets. ECONYL® is a brand of recycled nylon that is created from this type of nylon waste. Patagonia uses NetPlus® fabrics, made from 100% recycled fishing nets.

Biobased nylon is an alternative to conventional nylon that is wholly or partly derived from natural, renewable sources such as corn, sugarcane, wheat, and more. Although biobased nylon can reduce reliance on fossil fuels, it is not necessarily biodegradable.

Man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs)

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Man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs), such as viscose, are usually made from dissolved wood pulp or "cellulose" from trees.

Man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs)

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This renewable, semi-synthetic material can have challenges such as deforestation. Sourcing materials from FSC® (Forest Stewardship Council)-certified forests helps address some of these challenges.

Viscose is the most used MMCF and is primarily made from wood pulp, but can also come from agricultural by-products, as well as post-consumer and industrial waste. LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibres are a branded type of viscose that uses less water and emits fewer CO2 emissions compared to conventional viscose.

Lyocell , such as TENCEL™ Lyocell, is often made from eucalyptus but can also come from bamboo or other feedstocks. These fibres are made from responsibly sourced wood and have a lower environmental impact than generic viscose.

Modal is a cellulosic fibre primarily made from beech wood. This flexible fibre is well-known for its exceptional softness. Lenzing's TENCEL™ branded Modal is extracted from naturally grown beech wood in FSC & PEFC-certified European forests. Sherpa Adventure often uses Modal in their products.

Chemicals / PFAS

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PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) is an overarching term for a family of chemicals used in many products, including outdoor kit. They help fabrics repel water and oil, making them useful for waterproofing. PFAS are found in durable water repellents (DWR), waterproof membranes, zippers, and trims.

Chemicals / PFAS

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While PFAS make products more durable, they do not break down in nature. This raises concerns about pollution and possible health risks.

PFAS-free (or non-PFAS) products means no PFAS were intentionally added. Some brands use “PFC-free” and “PFAS-free” to mean the same thing. However, small traces may still be present due to environmental exposure. Many brands now use PFAS-free water-repellent and waterproof materials. For example, most Rab fabrics with DWR are PFAS-free.

ePE (expanded polyethylene) s a waterproof membrane free of intentionally added PFAS. It is an alternative to a ePTFE (expanded polytetrafluoroethylene) membrane. GORE-TEX® ePE is a well-known waterproof technology now used by brands like Patagonia, Arc'teryx, and Mountain Equipment.

Bluesign® and OEKO-TEX® are institutions that provide certifications for products and fabrics based on criteria related to chemical safety, including whether the product has been made without the use of harmful chemicals.

Washing and reproofing your products is essential to help retain water-repellence. PFAS-free fabrics need more frequent care than PFAS-treated ones. Nikwax makes PFAS-free cleaning and waterproofing products, which can be used on both PFAS and PFAS-free fabrics.