Mountain Bike Buying Guide

Mountain biking is one of the best ways to enjoy the outdoors. A mountain bike can take you virtually everywhere – uphill, off road, in the forest, in the hills – and more besides. They’re super fun, and great for your physical and mental health. But how do you decide on the bike for you? Have a read through our guide to see the considerations when buying a new mountain bike.

All of our bikes listed online have a size guide included (based on the manufacturer’s recommendation) which will give you a definite size for each model of bike. We can’t list all the variables for every model of bike, so if you are at all unsure about sizing, give us a shout.

There are a lot of variables in the geometry of a bike that defines how the bike handles. We could write a whole article just on this but let’s stick to the basics. Enduro bikes have a geometry that prioritises stability at high speed and on rough, steep terrain. This means that whilst they ride uphill OK, you won’t be setting any records, and longer distances become more of a chore on an enduro bike.

On the other hand, cross country bikes absolutely excel at long distances and routes with lots of climbing. The geometry puts the rider in an efficient pedalling position, but it does mean on difficult, steep, or technical terrain, the bike can become a little skittish.

If you have decided on the type of riding you want to do, the geometry of bikes in that category will be broadly similar, but it’s good to have an idea why certain bikes feel different. Here’s a couple of aspects to look out for:

So, you’ve decided what type of riding you want to do. What else should you look out for? You could easily get hung up about every component on a bike, but let’s look at some of the most important decisions:

Frame: Choosing between a hardtail or a full suspension frame is the first choice. Hardtails are generally lighter, easier to maintain (as they have no moving parts), and cost less. Full suspension frames though offer far better traction off road, both for climbing and descending, allowing you to push harder on rough terrain, and providing more confidence. However, bear in mind that if every other component on the bike was the same, a full suspension bike will cost about £750 to £1,000 more than the equivalent hardtail. So, which to choose? If you’re starting out, a hardtail offers great value, good performance and help you learn skill and technique. Just bear in mind if you really get the MTB bug, you may in time want to upgrade to a full suspension bike.

Suspension: The more suspension travel you have, the more capable the bike will be on steep and rough downhill trails. Conversely, the less suspension travel you have, the lighter the bike will be and the better it will be able to climb and cover long distances. Higher end suspension units offer more adjustments to finer tune your handling preferences. It’s also worth looking out for the diameter of the stanchions of the fork (the sliding tubes) – wider stanchions offer more rigidity and strength. A typical trail bike will have a fork with around 140mm travel and 34 or 35mm stanchions. Suspension units are expensive to buy separately, so if you are swithering between two bikes, consider the suspension units as these are less affordable to change.

Materials: Most of our bikes will either be made from aluminium or carbon fibre. Aluminium is a good, robust material and offer good value and long life. Carbon is lighter, stiffer (good for pedalling efficiency) and considerably more expensive. For maximum performance, carbon is the way to go, but aluminium frames are still very good – there are plenty of enduro racers who ride aluminium frames so it really isn’t a problem. Aluminium is probably a bit more able to handle a lack of maintenance, so if you know you’re not able to give it plenty of TLC, aluminium may be the best choice.

Wheel Size: Currently there are two main wheel sizes on mountain bikes – 27.5” and 29”. Each have their own advantages.

• 27.5"
• The smaller diameter allows quicker handling & fast turning
• They're lighter
• They're stronger
• 29"
• The large diameter rolls easier over obstacles
• Holds more momentum and carries speed better

Generally speaking, if you want the fastest bike, it’ll probably have 29” wheels. If you want a bike that is fun and handles perfectly, try 27.5”.

Gearing: Many mountain bikes now have what are called 1x drivetrains. This means there is one chainring connected to the pedals and gears at the back (up to 12). This setup is clean, reliable and easier to maintain than traditional setups with two or three rings at the cranks. 1x systems don’t have as big a range as a traditional system, but for most people, they are a must have.

Brakes: Virtually all mountain bikes have hydraulic disc brakes which provide controlled braking in most conditions. One thing to look out for is the size of the disc (or rotor). A bigger rotor allows more powerful braking, especially important on a heavier bike like an electric bike. Also, for enduro bikes and electric bikes, consider the number of pistons in the brake. Two piston brakes are standard, but a four piston brake offers more power and control.

Cockpit: For maximum control, a wide handlebar matched with a short stem works really well to give you direct and controllable steering. For XC riding, you may not need as much width and may want a little more length in your setup for better efficiency.

Dropper Seatpost: A dropper post allows you to raise or lower the saddle at the push of a lever on your handlebars. Dropping the saddle height is useful for descending, allowing you to get your centre of gravity lower. For climbing, you need the saddle higher to make pedalling easier and use the full length of your legs. A dropper post allows you to change saddle height on the move, very easily.

Tyres: As the main contact point of the bike, tyres are vitally important. A lightweight XC tyres will feel fast but might not offer as much grip as you would like on wet, muddy trails. Conversely, a grippy tyre may feel slow on easy terrain. Fortunately tyres are easy to change but it’s worth considering upfront as a good set of new tyres could easily cost £80 or up.

Tubeless: Another choice on tyres is tubeless. This technology removes the traditional inner tube from the wheel, using a liquid sealant to keep air in the tyre, and plug small holes made by thorns or debris. It isn’t a fool-proof system, but it is very good. If you plan on riding technical terrain, it’s well worth going tubeless as it will allow you to safely run lower pressures which will provide more grip.

Electric MTB

So, you’ve decided what type of riding you want to do. What else should you look out for? You could easily get hung up about every component on a bike, but let’s look at some of the most important decisions:

Battery: The battery is probably the single biggest consideration. The bigger the battery, the more range (this is measured in WH – 500WH is standard) but also, the more capacity a battery has the heavier it will be. You can often buy replacement batteries but these are very expensive (around £500) so getting it right when you buy the bike is key.

Motor: As the motor on most e-bikes is integrated into the frame, it’s not something you can change further down the line, so getting it right when you buy the bike is important. Whilst most systems are broadly equal at any given price point (in terms of performance) it’s worth singling out Bosch units. As a large worldwide manufacturer, Bosch systems have excellent engineering and support, with UK service centres able to give you peace of mind that your purchase can be kept whole and in perfect working order for the life of the bike.